Hill Of The Hog

We stay closer to home this week as we ascend a local Munro, Beinn Chabhair 3061ft (Hill of the Hog).

Beinn Chabhair is situated at the head of the Beinn Glas Burn, 4½ kilometres north-east of the north end of Loch Lomond from where it is hidden behind the steep lower slopes. It is one of the many hills we have climbed recently in which the summit is a guessing game for us as it is not visible from our starting point, The Drovers Inn at Inveruglas.

The Drovers Inn is an old inn used by the Highland drovers who used to drive their cattle down the side of Loch Lomond to the markets. The decor and furniture, in deference to the past, look as though they have not been changed or altered for a couple of hundred years. Central heating and double glazing have not yet been installed in these premises nor has its installation ever been considered, indeed the adjectives authentic and rustic could almost have been compiled for this ancient piece of Scottish pub folklore.

The ascent starts with a steep climb that follows the Beinn Glas Burn passing the fantastic Beinn Glas Waterfalls before leading to the rivers source Lochan Beinn Chabhair 400m below the summit of the hill itself. We have never seen a source of a river/waterfall before and this tranquil Lochan it is quite a site sitting majestically within its own little valley.

From here the path disappears and you are left to guess which peak will be your end destination which thankfully for us on this fine day is not a problem. After 10 minutes or so we mange to pick up a path again but sadly the weather conditions are spreading a heat haze that is making viewing conditions less than favourable.

The final ridge that looks quite frightening from the Lochan turns out to be quite an easy and enjoyable ascent but sadly the views from the summit turn out to be a tad disappointing. Yes, the heat haze has restricted our horizon but we were hoping for an extended view down Loch Lomond which doesn’t look as it would ever be possible on a perfect day from this vantage point, as a result we take comfort in the excellent views over the Crianlarich Hills, Tyndrum Hills and the Bridge of Orchy Hills.

Our descent is via the same route we have climbed although the final steep section down to Beinn Glas Farm provides dangerous loose scree which nearly upends us on a few occasions.

Arriving back at the car we drive north a few miles to the gouged out pool on the Falls of Falloch, this is supplied by a stunning black waterfall which also serves as welcome cooling off spot for us after our sweaty ascent up Chabhair. Unfortunately it also serves as a hot spot for large clusters of midges which have us running for cover on our egress from the pool. The ferocity of these fearsome critters is so intense that we make great speed to the car to escape their unwanted presence and take refuge in the nearest hostelry to replenish our depleted blood levels :o)

One Day Like This

Walking for most people involves the voluntary act of one foot following the other until the custodian of the appendages orders a halt to either gain a rest or has reached his/her end destination.

Walking long distances to many in this automotive world is a completely alien concept which is exampled by the expanding girths of our nation’s populace. Many of whom baulk at the thought of raising their ‘well covered’ bones from the sofa to pick up the TV remote.

We, as a couple of reassembly fit bipeds uphold the beliefs of the American physician and cardiologist Paul Dudley White that ‘A vigorous five-mile walk will do more good for an unhappy but otherwise healthy adult than all the medicine and psychology in the world.’

The physical benefits of distance walking are well documented; additionally we have found that distance walking enhances ones personal identity by:

• Learning to focus and relax your mind
• Attain the ability to enjoy yourself and your surroundings
• Gain patience as you walk longer distances
• Using your mind to overcome adversity
• Master your mind, and be able to accomplish any goal you set for yourself

These attributes were to be severely tested on this meander, a 30+ mile, 2 day walk around The Isle of Bute.

The Isle of Bute lies in Scotland’s Firth of Clyde, tucked into the spectacular sea lochs of southern Argyll. 15 miles long by approximately 4 miles wide Bute is less than two hours from the city of Glasgow. The island was a popular Victorian seaside destination, when the main town of Rothesay would be bustling with trippers who had come “doon the watter” during the Glasgow Fair and disembarked from the many steamers that sailed the Clyde.

Cruising into Rothesay harbour on a hot summer’s day offers a surreal vista of elegant Victorian architecture garnished with an abundance of palm trees swaying along the prom. It is amongst this Victorian elegance that our stopover for the evening is situated; The Glendale Guest House. Looking over the harbour this mini castle is resplendent with turrets and strategically placed bay windows, furnished with a tasteful mixture of oak and leather. The view from our room and adjoining lounge cannot be understated in its description as truly breathtaking, the sort of view that one could happily sit at all evening and forget that time exists.

Arriving at mid-morning our landlady kindly lets us into our room to leave our bags as we quickly rush to catch a bus to take us to the south of the island where we begin our quest to conquer The West Island Way.

The West Island Way is Scotland's first long distance island footpath. It was developed and opened in 2000 as part of Bute's events to celebrate the millennium. The path is 30 miles of way marked walking which runs from south to north and takes in track, moor, forest and coastal walking.

The first section of the West Island Way is a short loop which begins and ends in Kilchattan Bay. A distance of some four and a half miles, it was a pre-existing and well-known walk before the West Island Way was developed. As we walk through the southern tip of the island we take a slight detour from the path to gaze over the short stretch of water to Arran and reminisce back to our recent climb of Goat Fell in Arran via glorious Glen Sannox. This early four and half miles proves to be a hard slog over difficult underfoot conditions, which sees us return to Kilchattan Bay just before the local post office shuts its doors at four o’clock. Never, has a cold drink and ice cream tasted as good as we rest or weary limbs under an increasingly intense sun.

Rejuvenated and rehydrated we head North on the nine mile stretch to our overnight stop at Rothesay. Within the first couple of miles we arrive at an airfield which has been playing host to a number of small single-engine aircraft all morning. The quick elevation gained with very little speed by these light aircraft is mighty impressive as we look on at there departure and arrivals. Pressing on and gaining some elevation of our own we climb up the backbone of the island accompanied by increasingly intensive heat. As we reach the highest point of the day we celebrate with dance of joy at the well structured trig point. From here a flat farmer’s track takes along the southern backbone of the island before a welcome downhill stretch takes us past Loch Ascog which is a popular viewing spot for birdwatchers and Loch Fad a renowned fishing Loch with a healthy stock of fine Brown Trout.

As the midges start to make their irksome presence felt we arrive back at Rothesay and waste no time in acquiring a fish supper which we devour at a speed that makes the gathering seagulls eating habits look cultured by comparison. As we walk the short distance to our Guest House we look over the harbour to the retiring sun as it sets the sky ablaze with a combination of fiery red and flaming orange, magnified by the still cool water. Silently drawing the day to a close you can almost hear it whisper "Farewell" to the world as it sinks lower and lower in a lazy manner; almost as if it never wants to leave.

Day two and 17 miles to complete before the final ferry to the mainland begins in ideal walking conditions, an overcast sky and gentle breeze accompanies us on the first hilly stretch to Port Bannatyne. On arrival the sun peers through the cloud and spreads its life enhancing qualities around us as blue replaces grey in the skies above and we resign ourselves to another strength sapping day. Port Bannatyne comes complete with a tea room, and with its own wreck. This is the abandoned fishing vessel the Co-Worker which ran aground and has since been referred to, perhaps a little fancifully, as "Bute's Eifel Tower." Scenically attractive, the small town also plays host to three pubs and an off-license all within a three minute walk of each other. Could there be an alcohol problem in the village ;-)

Moving on at speed we traverse the island towards Ettrick Bay and then climb north to the islands other main ferry terminal at Rhubodach. Passing through extensive grazing pastures and rich farmland we stop for a few minutes at a farm and watch some sheep being expertly sheared by two expert shearers whom we are told also ply their trade in New Zealand. Working within strict time parameters we press on through some overgrown terrain, the last ferry to the mainland is at 7pm and power walking is the order of the day should we hope to make it.
It is at this stage to the north of the island that we meet the first fellow walker of the way, ‘a nuclear scientist.’ Throughout our travels these past few months we have found that walking has aided us immensely to explore and learn about a place and its history, customs, people, geography, etc. This meander also furnishes us with some fascinating insights about the British Governments energy policies as our fellow walker is heavily involved in the design of Britain’s new generation of nuclear power stations and seems happy to answer all our environmental issues.

Isn’t it strange the people you meet in the middle of nowhere?

On reaching Rhubodach the way follows the main road down the North West shore of the island to the finish line at Port Bannatyne. At this point the scientist strikes out on his own as we begin to wilt under the unforgiving sun. This walk is now changing from a pleasant stroll into a serious slog as the final 5 miles along the tar macadam road begins to take its toll on our rapidly tiring legs. Determination to overcome adversity drives us on to the finish line seven hours and 17 hilly miles after we started.

Was it the heat, the lack of proper sleep, the power walking, and lack of carbohydrates/water or was our fitness levels not what they should be?

Whatever the reason, this walk turned into a real test of character for us and one which we will look back on with great pride coupled with fond memories of those two sweltering days on The Isle of Bute.

One Day Like This A Year Would See Me Right ;-)

Video highlights below.

Ben Donich

The A83 trunk road has for centuries been known as the Rest And Be Thankful. Travellers have welcomed the chance to draw their breath and enjoy the view as they cross the summit at 860 feet on the road that leads from Loch Long to Loch Awe via Glen Croe and past the picturesque Butterbridge into Glen Kinlas. There can be few roads in Scotland so well documented by travellers over the centuries or so affectionately named as “The Rest”.

Its highest point is an ideal starting point for climbing Ben Donich (The Brown Mountain), The Brack, Beinn Luibhean and the impressive and rocky Beinn an Lochain, all of which are classed as Corbetts.

Our climb today is Ben Donich, a squat bulky mass which dominates the small village of Lochgoilhead.

Most of the hills in this area are prone to slope failure, and Ben Donich has some very spectacular examples. The North ridge path passes through some convoluted land slide debris and crevassed terrain at about 600m and a little way off to the north of the east-ridge there are 60 foot deep fissures at right angles, isolating a large block of hillside.

The climb starts with some lung busting zigzags before developing into a pleasant stroll up a well defined path eventually gaining the summit at 2780ft which offers stunning views over Loch Fyne to Firth of Clyde and The Kyles of Bute, Argyll, Knapdale and Kintyre.
The ascent proves to be relatively easy, so in an effort to add some excitement to our meander we decide to take an alternative descent from the summit and head straight back down via the highest gully. These quick descents from the top always look the quickest way of return but in reality prove to be more time consuming and tiresome than envisaged. And so it proves for us as we clamber down the steep decline in a crab like manner to the forest below which in turn throws up a mixed terrain of thick bracken, rocky stream and fallen trees.

This perceived quick route off the hill does in fact take us 30 minutes longer than the climb up the mountains well trodden path.

We rejoice on reaching flat ground which affords our overstretched quads a relaxing stretch along the final 10 minute stretch of forest road back to the car.

Paddy's Milestone

"Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."

Wind in the Willows -Kenneth Grahame

We don’t know much about sailing. However, over the course of our travels these past few months we have come to the realisation that sailing is an unfettered joy, and spending a prolonged period out on the water is beautiful and relaxing, as long as it’s on someone else’s boat.

When the weather is right it has to be the most rewarding mode of transport available to man. It’s slow, to be sure. Taking seven hours to go 25 miles isn’t exactly efficient. But you aren’t strapped in your seat like you are in an airplane, a bus, or a car. You can get up and move around like you can on a train and assuming the boat isn’t tiny; you have more room to sprawl out in than a first class sleeper carriage.

The usual means of transport between the Scottish Islands is by the state subsidised Caledonian MacBrayne. For our journey today we have gone private as our end destination is an uninhabited volcanic plug out with Cal-Macs route itinerary.

This meander over water takes us across the Firth of Clyde to Ailsa Craig which lies nine miles offshore from Girvan on Scotland’s south west coast. Standing proud at 1,109 feet the islands sea cliffs are home to the third largest gannetry in the UK - comprising 36,000 pairs - with a supporting cast of guillemots, razorbills, black guillemots and increasing numbers of puffins.

Arriving at Girvan harbour at 11am we have no time to obey the usual parking protocol procedures as we quickly abandon the car on the pier and rush aboard the old fishing trawler (our cruise ship for today) which has a full accompaniment of passengers on board awaiting our arrival. As we leave the safety of the harbour the gentle breeze created by our slow passage through the flat calm sea offers a welcome respite from the intensity of the sun. Slowly the Ayrshire coast opens up behind us and ahead of us the island begins to grow larger as the gentle putt-putt of the engine aids us through the deep blue waters creating a marble effect across our bow supplemented by the suns polarizing assistance.

As we circumnavigate the island, evidence of the islands redundant mining industry looms large with the rusting decay of abandoned rails and bogies. Geologically, the island was formed through volcanic activity and boasts large quantities of granite, which for a time was mined and shipped back to the main land where it was shaped and polished into curling stones. Mining began sometime in the early 19th century and ended in the early 1970s.

Ailsa Craig is also known colloquially as "Paddy's Mile Stone" as it lies halfway between the cities of Glasgow and Belfast is a well known marine navigational hazard giving home to a solar powered lighthouse. Initially, the lighthouse used oil-burning lamps, but by 1911, these were replaced with incandescent lighting. Fog signals were discontinued in 1987. Then, in 1990, the lighthouse was automated, and a refurbishment took place in 2001, when it was converted to run on solar power.

Coming back to the mainland it becomes apparent that some of the elderly trippers on the boat are beginning to feel a tad uncomfortable under the unforgiving sun and absence of the expected comfort stop on the island. These feelings of discomfort pass without notice by the skipper and his mate who has sprawled his carcass out on the bow of the tiny vessel while blowing out more smoke from his countless cigarettes than the boats old engine can muster under a full head of steam. Clearly these two pirates of the modern age are lamenting the decline of the local fishing industry by trawling the pockets of visiting tourists. They offer no interpretation facilities as the customers are left to share information and stories amongst themselves and damningly they offer no toilet facilities on a 4hr boat trip populated by elderly customers. The tricorn hat, long coat, trusty cutlass and obligatory parrot on the shoulder would have been more suitable attire for these two as we look on with sympathy at the seniors’ discomfort.

As we arrive back at Girvan, the harbour closes around us like embracing, welcoming arms and we ponder on Kenneth Grahame’s enthusiasm for all things nautical and wonder if some of the elderly passengers who shared this trip with us would agree with his musing.

People Have A Thing For Mountains!

People have a thing for mountains.

God has a thing for mountains, too. God chose to do some of his best work and made some stunning revelations of himself to people at high altitudes. On the tops of mountains, God made a promise to Noah, supplied a substitutionary sacrifice to Abraham for his son Isaac, talked to Moses through a burning bush, gave Moses the Law, participated with Elijah in a definitive showdown with false prophets, gave a glimpse of his glory in the Transfiguration of Christ, who later ascended to heaven from a mountain top.

So why do mere mortals climb a mountain?

George Leigh Mallory replied on being asked why he was climbing Everest in 1923 “Because it’s there”.

Our motivation for ascending the mountains is not for spiritual enlightenment or the fact that there is an abundance of them in Scotland nor is it derived from a wish fulfilment fantasy to climb every Munro in Scotland. Our simple motivation is derived from looking at the weather forecast and deciding which hill will endure our presence the next day. The choice of mountain can often be a head scratching conundrum entailing a trawl through various mountaineering websites rammed with climbing gobbledygook incomprehensible to anyone who doesn’t know the back end of a compass from a GPS system.

It is through this haphazard decision making process that we happen upon Ben Venue (pronounced Ben Venoo, gaelic = mountain of the caves). Rising proud from the wooded slopes of the Trossachs, Ben Venue is a rugged little climb. Dark cliffs and rocky knolls may suggest an air of impregnability, but the fortress-like defences of the peak's summit can be breached if you know where to look. There are two different starting points to choose from, we choose the longer path rising from Loch Ard. This route like some other ascents we have traversed recently throws up the bizarre anomaly of not being able to see the summit you are about to surmount. This method of ascent via a Google print out adds an extra spice to the climb as we continually guess which of the peaks above us will be our final destination. It also leads us up many blind summits which further add to the excitement of the mountain.

The weather today sees the mountain blessed with brilliant sunshine as we set off mid-morning in one of the hottest days of the year so far. The bottom quarter of the climb cuts through a mixed forest of beautiful deciduous trees followed by geometric blocks of commercial sitka spruce plantations which offer welcome cover from the burning sun. Eventually the route bears right for the final ascent to the bealach where a low fence is crossed by a stile and Ben Venue comes into view at last and our guess attempts about our final destination prove wildly inaccurate. Once across the stile the route takes on an alpine feel as the route to the summit lies enticingly ahead of us. We capture the summit just as ‘The Sir Walter Scott’ departs below on its afternoon sail from Trossachs Pier around Loch Katrine. Once the summit is attained we gaze admiringly around us as views open up of the Firth of Forth, the Clyde, Isle of Arran, Paps of Jura and to the north Ben A'an, Ben More, Stob Binnein, Ben Lomond and the Arrochar Alps.

Our retrace back down the hill is blessed by a large grey cloud which makes the descent an enjoyable trek that passes all too quickly allowing the sun to reappear as we hit flat ground at our start point.

Previous walks in this locale have made us aware of a spectacular waterfall and pool at Inversnaid which is situated by the north banks of Loch Lomond on the West Highland Way. Foresight and anticipation of extreme heat and a sweated brow have ensured that bathing costumes of a fashion have been packed in the car as we make haste to rest our weary limbs in the natural black eddy, fashioned by peat soaked water cascading over clashing rocks to form natures own hydrotherapy pool. The remote location of this organic spa ensures that we have complete seclusion as the sun slowly disappears behind the surrounding hills.

Ahh Bliss.

Shouldn’t every long hot day finish this way ;-)