Walking long distances to many in this automotive world is a completely alien concept which is exampled by the expanding girths of our nation’s populace. Many of whom baulk at the thought of raising their ‘well covered’ bones from the sofa to pick up the TV remote.
We, as a couple of reassembly fit bipeds uphold the beliefs of the American physician and cardiologist Paul Dudley White that ‘A vigorous five-mile walk will do more good for an unhappy but otherwise healthy adult than all the medicine and psychology in the world.’
The physical benefits of distance walking are well documented; additionally we have found that distance walking enhances ones personal identity by:
- Learning to focus and relax your mind
- Attain the ability to enjoy yourself and your surroundings
- Gain patience as you walk longer distances
- Using your mind to overcome adversity
- Master your mind, and be able to accomplish any goal you set for yourself
These attributes were to be severely tested on this meander, a 30+ mile, 2 day walk around The Isle of Bute.
The Isle of Bute lies in Scotland’s Firth of Clyde, tucked into the spectacular sea lochs of southern Argyll. 15 miles long by approximately 4 miles wide Bute is less th
an two hours from the city of Glasgow. The island was a popular Victorian seaside destination, when the main town of Rothesay would be bustling with trippers who had come “doon the watter” during the Glasgow Fair and disembarked from the many steamers that sailed the Clyde.
Cruising into Rothesay harbour on a hot summer’s day offers a surreal vista of elegant Victorian architecture garnished with an abundance of palm trees swaying along the prom. It is amongst this Victorian elegance that our stopover for the evening is situated; The Glendale Guest House. Looking over the harbour this mini castle is resplendent with turrets and strategically placed bay windows, furnished with a tasteful mixture of oak and leather. The view from our room and adjoining lounge cannot be understated in its description as truly breathtaking, the sort of view that one could happily sit at all evening and forget that time exists.
Arriving at mid-morning our landlady kindly lets us into our room to leave our bags as we quickly rush to catch a bus to take us to the south of the island where we begin our quest to conquer The West Island Way.
The West Island Way is Scotland's first long distance island footpath. It was developed and opened in 2000 as part of Bute's events to celebrate the millennium. The path is 30 miles of way marked walking which runs from south to north and takes in track, moor, forest and coastal walking.
The first section of the West Island Way is a short loop which begins and ends in Kilchattan Bay. A distance of some four and a half miles, it was a pre-existing and well-known walk before the West Island Way was developed. As we walk through the southern tip of the island we take a slight detour from the path to gaze over the short stretch of water to Arran and reminisce back to our recent climb of Goat Fell in Arran via glorious Glen Sannox. This early four and half miles proves to be a hard slog over difficult underfoot conditions, which sees us return to Kilchattan Bay just before the local post office shuts its doors at four o’clock. Never, has a cold drink and ice cream tasted as good as we rest or weary limbs under an increasingly intense sun.
Rejuvenated and rehydrated we head North on the nine mile stretch to our overnight stop at Rothesay. Within the first couple of miles we arrive at an airfield which has been playing host to a number of small single-engine aircraft all morning. The quick elevation gained with very little speed by these light aircraft is mighty impressive as we look on at there departure and arrivals. Pressing on and gaining some elevation of our own we climb up the backbone of the island accompanied by increasingly intensive heat. As we reach the highest point of the day we celebrate with dance of joy at the well structured trig point. From here a flat farmer’s track takes along the southern backbone of the island before a welcome downhill stretch takes us past Loch Ascog which is a popular viewing spot for birdwatchers and Loch Fad a renowned fishing Loch with a healthy stock of fine Brown Trout. 
As the midges start to make their irksome presence felt we arrive back at Rothesay and waste no time in acquiring a fish supper which we devour at a speed that makes the gathering seagulls eating habits look cultured by comparison. As we walk the short distance to our Guest House we look over the harbour to the retiring sun as it sets the sky ablaze with a combination of fiery red and flaming orange, magnified by the still cool water. Silently drawing the day to a close you can almost hear it whisper "Farewell" to the world as it sinks lower and lower in a lazy manner; almost as if it never wants to leave.
Day two and 17 miles to complete before the final ferry to the mainland begins in ideal walking conditions, an overcast sky and gentle breeze accompanies us on the first hilly stretch to Port Bannatyne. On arrival the sun peers through the cloud and spreads its life enhancing qualities around us as blue replaces grey in the skies above and we resign ourselves to another strength sapping day. Port Bannatyne comes complete with a tea room, and with its own wreck. This is the abandoned fishing vessel the Co-Worker which ran aground and has since been referred to, perhaps a little fancifully, as "Bute's Eifel Tower." Scenically attractive, the small town also plays host to three pubs and an off-license all within a three minute walk of each other. Could there be an alcohol problem in the village ;-)
Moving on at speed we traverse the island towards Ettrick Bay and then climb north to the islands other main ferry terminal at Rhubodach. Passing through extensive grazing pastures and rich farmland we stop for a few minutes at a farm and watch some sheep being expertly sheared by two expert shearers whom we are told also ply their trade in New Zealand. Working within strict time parameters we press on through some overgrown terrain, the last ferry to the mainland is at 7pm and power walking is the order of the day should we hope to make it. 
It is at this stage to the north of the island that we meet the first fellow walker of the way, ‘a nuclear scientist.’ Throughout our travels these past few months we have found that walking has aided us immensely to explore and learn about a place and its history, customs, people, geography, etc. This meander also furnishes us with some fascinating insights about the British Governments energy policies as our fellow walker is heavily involved in the design of Britain’s new generation of nuclear power stations and seems happy to answer all our environmental issues.
Isn’t it strange the people you meet in the middle of nowhere?
On reaching Rhubodach the way follows the main road down the North West shore of the island to the finish line at Port Bannatyne. At this point the scientist strikes out on his own as we begin to wilt under the unforgiving sun. This walk is now changing from a pleasant stroll into a serious slog as the final 5 miles along the tar macadam road begins to take its toll on our rapidly tiring legs. Determination to overcome adversity drives us on to the finish line seven hours and 17 hilly miles after we started.
Was it the heat, the lack of proper sleep, the power walking, and lack of carbohydrates/water or was our fitness levels not what they should be?
Whatever the reason, this walk turned into a real test of character for us and one which we will look back on with great pride coupled with fond memories of those two sweltering days on The Isle of Bute.
One Day Like This A Year Would See Me Right ;-)
Video highlights below.
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